Welcome to Tech Talk, where our resident BMW tech Nick Owen answers all your pressing BMW technical questions, frustrations, and issues. Have a question for Nick? Email him at techtalk@roundel.org. Let’s get into it.
MAYBE IT’S VANOS SPLINES
I’m a long-time BMW CCA member (#103837) and have owned too many BMWs to count: 2002s, my bought-new E30, E28s, and several E46s (kids’ and wife’s cars).
I bought our E39 (’99 528i) new. It’s a sport package, five-speed car with just shy of 185,000 miles on it. I have always maintained the car myself with one exception: the original A/C compressor failed. I used a long-time friend’s shop (also a long-time BMW CCA member) to fix the A/C system. Unfortunately, he retired and closed the shop. Our E39 has been and still is a great car.
I am getting stumped with a SES code: P1522, “A camshaft position actuator bank 2.” I have an ES Code Buddy Pro scan tool. I understand that the cam-position sensors are known to fail, and therefore I replaced both the intake and exhaust-side position sensors; I replaced them one at a time starting with the exhaust because of the “bank 2” reference. I reset it and not too many miles later, the SES light reappeared: same code. Referencing the “A” in the code, I decided that maybe it was the intake sensor, so I replaced that. I reset it and several miles later, the SES light came back on: same code. Note that I used BMW OEM sensors.
I then focused on the SES code term “actuator,” and decided that it must be referring to the VANOs solenoid(s). Separately, I have now replaced both intake and exhaust solenoids. (I bought Febi Bilstein solenoids.) I received the same code after each replacement. Because they are identical, I swapped the two solenoids hoping for a different code, but again got the exact code.
One footnote, my reader first says that the code is manufacturer-specific, so I have to select BMW to get to the referenced code. Maybe that’s merely a reflection of my reader more than the actual problem. About a year ago, I rebuilt the VANOS system (seals and bearings) due to what I believed to be a sign of seal failure: erratic idle when cold. I have driven approximately 1,000 miles since the rebuild without any issues prior to the recent SES troubles. The car continues to run great.
Could you help me or share my note with the appropriate person?
Phil Williams
Your diagnosis is not too far off. Since you have replaced nearly everything in the VANOS system, it’s time to turn to the camshaft sprocket and piston for the VANOS unit. The M52TU/M54 engine is pretty good at being able to keep running (and rather well) despite faults in the system. I’m going to assume for a minute that even though you rebuilt the VANOS unit, you did not replace the splined pistons that go into the adjustable camshaft gear(s); if this is correct, I recommend that you take a close look at the splines for both intake and exhaust pistons, as well as the splines in the camshaft sprockets. What I hope you find is that there are some wear marks indicating that the piston splines are touching the splines of the camshaft sprocket, causing them to bind. This will cause the fault P1522, “‘A’ camshaft position actuator bank 2” to be stored because the speed of the adjustment request by the DME is too slow. I think that’s why the car still runs well but throws the fault; it’s just barely out of parameters of the DME.
Can I also assume that this engine runs on 5W-30 oil as indicated on the under-hood label? It’s a long shot, but maybe running oil that is too thick is causing this as well. However, considering the mileage of your E39, my bet is on the VANOS piston/sprocket splines. Let me know what you find.
PARKING BRAKE ISSUES
I have a 2016 X3 3.5i with a parking-brake issue. I was having intermittent problems with it over the past few weeks, and had it repaired by a BIMRS shop. They replaced the brake switch; I left the shop and everything was great. I got it home, pulled in the garage, and turned the brake on. However, the red light on the switch did not come on, so I turned the parking brake off, and it immediately went into malfunction.
I have tried for the last two weeks to undo the brake. I tried every combination of starting the engine while pushing the brake-off switch. I disconnected the battery for two hours, but nothing worked. Apparently there is no manual way of releasing the brake for this year and model. At this point I can’t get the car out of the garage, because the brakes are locked up, unless I drag it out, which I would like to avoid. Do you have any suggestions—or better yet, a solution?
Ted Dannerth
Sorry to hear about this! BMW did not do us favors with the newer cars when trying to get them into neutral or unlocked in a rare emergency. I’m sorry you’re dealing with this. Fear not about getting the car out of the garage; most tow companies are equipped with wheel dollies that can get under the tire and allow the car to pivot and move with some man power. This link is what they usually have. https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/vehicle-dollies/1300-lb-capacity-self-loading-positioning-wheel-dolly-64601.html
We have these at the dealership for when cars come in locked up as well.
I WANT TO BE ALARMED
Thanks again for your help when I was in desperate need of a differential for my E60 530i. During that period of uncertainty, I entertained finding a replacement—but now that the diff is fixed, this car is a keeper. I’ve owned it for eight years: new shocks, tires, A/C compressor. Plus it’s got BavSound speakers and upgraded interior. It’s comfortable, reliable, economical, and fun to drive.
Deciding to keep the E60, I’d been noodling with the idea of buying a second car, more for fun, for a couple of years. This week I pulled the trigger and bought a new old car, a 2008 E85 Z4 M roadster with a six-speed and just a few more than 17,000 miles on the clock! It’s in Cincinnati and should be delivered in the next ten days or so. Waiting is the hardest thing.
Reading through the build sheet, the car appears to have been wired for an alarm, but was not equipped with one. I assume that only the BMW alarm will work with the wiring. Are those available as an after-market purchase, and maybe within the capacity of this shadetree mechanic to install?
Thanks for all your help and expertise. You’re a great part of the CCA team!
David R. Good
Phoenix, Arizona
Hi, David! Glad I was able to help with the E60—and congratulations on the M roadster! I truly think that BMW nailed the roadster with the E85 chassis and S54 engine; that car is just a great top-down cruiser. If you’re able, stop by La Jolla Independent when you drive the car to California. Just tell them Nick from Tech Talk sent you. I promise you won’t be disappointed.
When BMW says “wired for alarm,” that means you can buy the alarm retrofit kit from BMW parts and have it installed. It will need to be coded to work properly, but the retrofit itself is not that involved. The alarm gets installed in the wheel well and then it gets encoded so that it will beep and do its job. An independent shop like LJI should be able to do the coding but sometimes they can’t. It just depends on what equipment the shop has. In the end, the dealership can get it done.